Email received - 8 October 2013
I have just recently bought a Deltacraft Mark 2 and I am thinking of fitting a 15 HP outboard, as an auxiliary, to the transom. The outboard weighs approx 33kgs.
Do you think this would be weight would be OK and is there any other issues ,apart from needing two types of fuel, that I should consider? Mick.
I have always maintained the view that the reliability of the diesel engine precludes the need to carry a spare engine. But if the owner still wants the outboard, the weight isn't a consideration, its fine.
A safe boat is one with out petrol or gas on board.
How can I advertise for rudder, etc. to convert back to diesel drive.
Boat has outboard fitted.
No drive shaft or rudder present.
I just got the boat home. It has had a diesel and prop shaft but removed. Output end is sealed off (Prop end).
I have a Yanmar 8 diesel with matching prop and drive coupling. Just need the shaft or shaft details. I have found a shaft supplier on eBay.
The rudder system would also be useful.
Our reply 13 Jan 2014
Is there a plate at the rear of the skeg or does there appear to be any type of fibreglass filling.
Is there any sign of a steering system fitted in the rear of the engine area.
I have seen what one owner did to improve his propeller shaft and propeller tube fittings. It was a lot of work. He did it himself with lots of assistance from other retired tradesmen. His estimate was $3,000 if he needed to pay for the work.
You may need access to another Deltacraft to provide moulds and samples for the refit.
It may be cheaper to sell this boat and buy another fitted the way you wish.
Email 12 March 2014 with an offer of assistance from Darrin.
I may be able to help with a stern gland . First it would have to be identified as to the type of gland used as it can vary a lot due to different engine installations etc. and also possibly changed at some stage . Unfortunately there isn't a type of standard parts listings type book or manuals available to refer to for an exact part.
But we can go through a few steps to try and establish the type of gland.
1. Is it (a) attached with a short piece of rubber of flexible tubing? and if so what is the OD of the stern tube its attached to? , (b) screwed directly on to the stern tube? , or (c) bolted to the log /hull with a flange? ,
2. Is it
(a) a Spud type -which looks like just a big hex nut with the packing in it held with another hex lock nut?, or
(b) the type with a threaded stud each side of the shaft which holds/adjusts an oval shape gland with the packing behind it?
If we can get some of the above identified that will help in finding a suitable gland
Email 13 March 2014 to Darrin
I don't know what suits the Deltacraft. I will try to get more details.
Boat has been converted to outboard motor. (I want to convert it back to inboard). It did have prop drive with tunnel for prop drive shaft. This has been glassed over.
I have cut away the fibreglass. I still have to remove a timber dowel about 100 mm long (Plugged the exit hole)
It has a copper tube, apparently from the external gland-bearing, probably about 600 mm long. From the engine compartment, the 36 mm od copper tube protrudes about 50 mm from prop tunnel.
I have a suitable gland for this position (With rubber hose and hose clips).
Seems that I need (preferably) an external bearing that has its own seals. The graphite type seal is preferred. Then I don't have to rely on the copper tube as part of the sealing system. The drive shaft is one inch diameter.
Email 18 March 2014 from Frank.
I have found some good contacts and list them below. The boat is going to Greg Nielsen Brisbane to sort it out. (On magic tilt aluminium trailer).
The drive tunnel has 36 mm OD copper tube in the engine room. At the skeg, it has a 26 mm tube about 3mm wall thickness. Material is rock hard but does not seem to be metal. I drilled out the dowel which was longer than 100mm. A brand new auger drill did it in seconds.
The drive tunnel apparently can not function as it should. Seems it may have to be bored out and fitted with a new system.
Greg Nielsen at Shed 2, 28 Wyuna Court, Hemmant, Queensland will sort it out.
Jamie at Rodgers and Laugh at sales@rlmarine.com.au will make the prop shaft bearings and seals.
Tracy at Poliflex 07 3284 2799. Is supplying the coupling for the Yanmar engine.
Incidentally, I was tech sales manager for electric motors. I can answer just about any question on anything driven by an electric motor.
Snippet: Crevice Corrosion will cause stainless steel to vanish if it is not exposed to oxygen. Bolts holding rudders may end up with heads and nuts only. It happened on my Marauder 24. The outer extremities of two 6mm SS bolts were linked by what resembled a piece of thin fuse wire.
Swimming pool SS pump motor shafts often disapear within the area of the seals.
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